Included: every meal
Three meals plus tea. There is no restaurant bill because there is no restaurant.
BERINAG
1,740 metres · Kumaon Himalaya
000
About the house
In 2016 the younger of our two children left for college in Dehradun and the first floor went silent. Kamla said we should put a bed in the front room. That was the whole business plan.
Ten years later there are four rooms, a rebuilt byre, a fibre line and a website. The house is the same house. The cow is a different cow.
First principles
Five rooms would mean hiring someone to manage guests, and the moment there is a manager, there is a front desk, and the moment there is a front desk you are in a hotel. Four is the largest number Kamla can cook for without it becoming catering.
Every person you meet here — the cook, the two drivers, the woman who brings the milk, the men who rebuilt the byre — lives within four kilometres. This is not a marketing position. It is the only reason the village tolerates the traffic we bring.
A homestay that promises mountain views in August is selling a photograph, not a place. We tell you the visibility odds for your dates before you pay, and if they are bad we tell you to come another month.
The building
The original section was built by Deepak's grandfather, Kishan Singh Pant, some time between 1938 and 1944 — nobody wrote it down. Dry-stacked local stone, half-metre walls, deodar beams cut from the slope behind. The first floor was added in 1979 in cement block, which was fashionable and is a mistake we live with. The byre collapsed in the 2013 rains and we rebuilt it in 2021 as the Stone Cottage, using its own stone.
In plain terms
Three meals plus tea. There is no restaurant bill because there is no restaurant.
Walks, farm work, cooking sessions, the bonfire, the telescope, the sunrise trip. No activity menu, no per-head pricing.
Twice a week, line-dried, which in monsoon means three days.
Munsiyari, Patal Bhuvaneshwar, Pithoragarh. We charge exactly what the driver charges us and show you the number.
We do not stock or serve it. Bring your own; drink it on your terrace.
Nobody can sell you a clear morning. We will tell you the odds for your dates.
The numbers
Kept in a ledger by Kamla, transcribed once a year, and not rounded up.
2016
First guestA cyclist from Pune who stayed one night and came back for eleven.
2,140
Guests sinceAcross ten seasons, four rooms and one very patient dog.
214
Written reviewsAveraging 4.9. We publish the four-star ones too.
38%
Return rateThe number we are actually proud of.
Around the house
No spa, no pool, no gym, no lobby.
Six chairs, one table, the best light in the house from 3 pm.
Mostly left behind by guests. Take one, leave one.
Open to you. Kamla will hand you the tongs on day two.
Vegetables, apricot, apple, and one left wild for the bees.
Next
Three nights is the minimum that works. Two is a long drive for one dinner, and we will tell you so if you ask for it.