BERINAG

1,740 metres · Kumaon Himalaya

000

Berinag Home Stay

About the house

We had a house
that got too quiet.


In 2016 the younger of our two children left for college in Dehradun and the first floor went silent. Kamla said we should put a bed in the front room. That was the whole business plan.

Ten years later there are four rooms, a rebuilt byre, a fibre line and a website. The house is the same house. The cow is a different cow.

A swept stone courtyard with morning light across it
Est. 2016 · Four rooms · One table

First principles

Three things we decided early and have not changed

We would not grow past four rooms

Five rooms would mean hiring someone to manage guests, and the moment there is a manager, there is a front desk, and the moment there is a front desk you are in a hotel. Four is the largest number Kamla can cook for without it becoming catering.

We would not employ anyone from outside the valley

Every person you meet here — the cook, the two drivers, the woman who brings the milk, the men who rebuilt the byre — lives within four kilometres. This is not a marketing position. It is the only reason the village tolerates the traffic we bring.

We would not lie about the weather

A homestay that promises mountain views in August is selling a photograph, not a place. We tell you the visibility odds for your dates before you pay, and if they are bad we tell you to come another month.

A traditional stone and timber hill houseTwo extensions, one regret

The building

Stone below, timber above, extended twice

The original section was built by Deepak's grandfather, Kishan Singh Pant, some time between 1938 and 1944 — nobody wrote it down. Dry-stacked local stone, half-metre walls, deodar beams cut from the slope behind. The first floor was added in 1979 in cement block, which was fashionable and is a mistake we live with. The byre collapsed in the 2013 rains and we rebuilt it in 2021 as the Stone Cottage, using its own stone.

  • Original constructionc. 1940
  • Wall thickness, ground floor500 mm
  • Rooms available to guests4
  • Maximum guests11
  • Altitude1,740 m
  • AspectNorth-facing

In plain terms

What is included, and what is not

01

Included: every meal

Three meals plus tea. There is no restaurant bill because there is no restaurant.

02

Included: almost every experience

Walks, farm work, cooking sessions, the bonfire, the telescope, the sunrise trip. No activity menu, no per-head pricing.

03

Included: laundry on stays over five nights

Twice a week, line-dried, which in monsoon means three days.

04

Not included: long drives

Munsiyari, Patal Bhuvaneshwar, Pithoragarh. We charge exactly what the driver charges us and show you the number.

05

Not included: alcohol

We do not stock or serve it. Bring your own; drink it on your terrace.

06

Not included: a guarantee of mountains

Nobody can sell you a clear morning. We will tell you the odds for your dates.

The numbers

Ten years, counted

Kept in a ledger by Kamla, transcribed once a year, and not rounded up.

2016

First guest

A cyclist from Pune who stayed one night and came back for eleven.

2,140

Guests since

Across ten seasons, four rooms and one very patient dog.

214

Written reviews

Averaging 4.9. We publish the four-star ones too.

38%

Return rate

The number we are actually proud of.

Around the house

What is actually here

No spa, no pool, no gym, no lobby.

A covered veranda with cane chairs facing the valley

The shared veranda

Six chairs, one table, the best light in the house from 3 pm.

A reading corner with a wool blanket and a low lamp

Two hundred books

Mostly left behind by guests. Take one, leave one.

The chulha kitchen

Open to you. Kamla will hand you the tongs on day two.

Terraced fields stepping down a hillside

Four terraces

Vegetables, apricot, apple, and one left wild for the bees.

A cow resting in a village shed
A wooden window frame opening onto a valley view

Next

Come and see whether it suits you

Three nights is the minimum that works. Two is a long drive for one dinner, and we will tell you so if you ask for it.

Chat with your host Call +91 98370 42188