A proper bed
Coir and cotton mattress, cotton sheets, and two quilts — the second one visible in the cupboard, not requested from reception.
BERINAG
1,740 metres · Kumaon Himalaya
000
Where you sleep
Nothing here is themed, branded or numbered. Each room is simply whatever that part of the house happened to be — a store, a byre, a child's bedroom — made warm and left alone.
In every room
There are no room categories in the hotel sense. These things are true of all four.
Coir and cotton mattress, cotton sheets, and two quilts — the second one visible in the cupboard, not requested from reception.
Solar-heated, gas-backed. It takes about ninety seconds to run hot. In January the solar does not cope and the gas does.
Wood heater in the Heritage Room and Cottage, oil-filled radiator upstairs. Hot water bottles at turn-down, October to March, unasked.
40–60 Mbps, with a 4G failover on a second network. It reaches every room. It drops in thunderstorms.
Because the power goes, and because the walk to the bathroom in the Cottage is outdoors.
Not a policy, an omission. We never bought one and nobody has asked twice.
Three plus tea, included in the rate, at one table, at seven.
Twice weekly, line-dried. In monsoon this means three days, so pack accordingly.
Room by room
Scroll and each room will hold its place for a moment before the next one arrives.
01 · Most requested
Two windows on two walls, both north. Between October and December you can lie in bed and watch the Panchachuli line go from grey to pink to white without lifting your head. The desk is here, which is why the long-stay guests ask for it and why it books out first.
02 · Step-free
The oldest room in the house, in the original 1940s stone section. Half-metre walls, a deep window seat, and a door straight onto the courtyard with no stairs anywhere. Cool in June, needs the second quilt in January. Chosen most often by guests travelling with parents.
03 · For families
The largest room in the main house: a double and two singles under a skylight, opening onto the upper terrace above the apricot trees. In the second week of June the fruit is at eye level from the window and the whole room smells of it.
04 · Most private
A separate two-room building forty steps up the slope, rebuilt in 2021 from the stone of the byre that collapsed in the 2013 rains. Its own veranda, its own wood stove, its own kettle, and no shared walls with anybody. Honeymooners and month-long guests.
Practicalities
Grouped roughly in the order guests ask them, based on ten years of the same eleven questions.
Also here
There is no lobby, no bar and no spa. There are these.
Six chairs and a table facing north. Tea appears here roughly seven times a day without being asked for.
Almost all left behind by guests. Fiction, birds, Himalayan history, and an inexplicable number of Scandinavian crime novels.
Not off-limits. Lift the lid on the pot. Kamla will hand you the tongs on your second day.
Vegetables, apricot, apple, and one deliberately left wild because the bees need something in April.
Bought secondhand from an observatory in Nainital. Comes out on new-moon nights between October and February.
A cow, a dog, a walnut tree, and the neighbours' children. This is the actual centre of the property.
Rates
Per room per night, including all meals and tea. There is no service charge, no resort fee and no per-head activity pricing. GST is not applicable at these tariffs under current rules.
| Room | Sleeps | Low season | Shoulder | Peak | Monthly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Heritage Room | 2 | ₹2,100 | ₹2,400 | ₹2,900 | ₹38,000 |
| The Valley Room | 2 | ₹2,800 | ₹3,200 | ₹3,800 | ₹46,000 |
| The Orchard Room | 4–5 | ₹3,600 | ₹4,100 | ₹4,900 | ₹58,000 |
| The Stone Cottage | 2–3 | ₹4,900 | ₹5,600 | ₹6,600 | ₹74,000 |
| Whole house | 11 | ₹12,600 | ₹14,400 | ₹17,200 | On request |
Choosing
If you tell us who is coming and when, we will just tell you. But here is the short version.
The Valley Room, and come between October and December. Any other room and you will be walking to a terrace at 6 am, which is fine but less romantic than the brochure.
The Heritage Room. Ground floor, step-free bathroom, no stairs between it and the dinner table. Tell us about medication and diet in advance.
The Orchard Room. The skylight is the single most effective child-management device on the property.
The Cottage, without hesitation. Separate building, own veranda, own fire, and you can be as antisocial as you like without anyone taking it personally.
The Cottage if you can afford it, the Valley Room if you cannot. Both have a real desk at the correct height.
Take the whole house. Eleven people, four rooms, and the run of the place. We do this about six times a year and it is always the best week of the season.
October to December books out roughly ten weeks ahead. May and June, closer to eight.