BERINAG

1,740 metres · Kumaon Himalaya

000

Berinag Home Stay

A forested ridge half-swallowed by moving fog
The ridge, 6.10 am
Sunbeams falling through a dense forest canopy
Oak forest, late March
A swept stone courtyard with morning light across it
The courtyard, any afternoon
A thali of home-cooked hill food laid out on a wooden table
Seven o'clock, one table
Star-filled night sky above a snow-covered mountain
January, no moon

Sixty frames

Almost none of these were taken by a professional. This is what a phone and an early start will get you here.

Mist moving between tall deodar trees at first light
Sunlight on moss-covered stones beside a forest trail
Straight pine trunks rising from a quiet forest floor
A clear mountain stream running over smooth stones

The forest starts four minutes from the door and the signal stops two hundred metres in.

Forest and water

Into the trees, sideways

Banj oak, chir pine, buransh above two thousand metres, and water everywhere from June to October.

Six walks from the door

Forty minutes to eight hours. Elevation and water points on laminated cards in the hall, because Deepak's verbal directions were incomprehensible.

Mist moving between tall deodar trees at first light
Oak forest at 6.20Four minutes from the door
Sunbeams falling through a dense forest canopy
Light through chir pineLate March, 8 am
Red rhododendron blossoms against spring foliage
Buransh in full redSecond week of April
A slim waterfall dropping into a rock pool
The unnamed fallGuided only
A clear mountain stream running over smooth stones
The spring above the houseRuns all year
A shallow river braiding between grey rocks
East Ramganga at ThalForty minutes by car
Sunlight on moss-covered stones beside a forest trail
Temple grove floorUncut for two centuries
A Himalayan bird resting on a bare branch
Koklass pheasant countryYou will hear far more than you see

Scroll sideways

The house

Inside

Four rooms, a courtyard, a veranda and a kitchen that does not close.

A bed positioned to face a wide picture window

The Valley Room

Two windows, both north

Rebuilt from its own stone

The Cottage was a byre until the 2013 rains brought its wall down. Four men from this lane put it back up over five months in 2021, using the stone that had fallen.

A swept stone courtyard with morning light across it

The courtyard

A cow, a dog, a walnut tree
1940The year the ground floor went up
A warm sitting room with a lit fire

Lit at four

October to March
Folded handwoven blankets stacked on a bench

Pankhi wool

Bhagwati's loom
A covered veranda with cane chairs facing the valley

Best light at 3 pm

Six chairs, one table
Sunset colours spreading over a mountain ridge

None of it photographs as well as it looks

That is not false modesty. The valley is difficult to shoot and easy to be in. Three nights is enough to understand the difference.

Chat with your host Call +91 98370 42188